Long considered a producer of inferior wines, British Columbia is now being recognized as a winemaking powerhouse.

British Columbia wine dates back only 140 years when Father Pandosy set up the first vineyards at the Obelate Mission near Kelowna. Nineteen twenty-six saw the first commercial vineyards and a winery that sold to the general public.

The main wine-growing region in this Canadian province is composed of the Okanagan and Similkameen Valleys in the south-central part.

Though the total land and freshwater area of British Columbia is larger than France and Germany combined, with approximately 5,500 acres under cultivation on fewer than 100 wineries the area is tiny by comparison to France, Italy, or even Spain.

The Okanagan Lake filling a large portion of the valley floor moderates the heat in this semi-arid desert region. From the soil of glacial stone, fine sand and silt and clay in the north, to the south’s sand and gravel come Bordeaux varieties of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot as well as the German Siegerrebe, Sylvaner and Ortega. Merlot and Chardonnay top the list as most commonly planted, but Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer are grown as well.

But with a climate governed by the region’s proximity to the Coast Mountain Range which produces hot, dry summers, ample hours of sun and low humidity, vintners have ideal conditions for producing award winning wines. And that they do.

Here the wineries of the Okanagan Valley produce 95 percent of British Columbia’s wine. With only six inches of rainfall annually in the south and sixteen in the north end, this is no mean feat. Especially for vineyards that, on average, are less than 10 years old.

Crisp, fruity whites are often in the German off-dry style, but there are many in the French tradition as well. Reds have advanced in recent years with the Pinot Noir producing an enviable medium-bodied drink from this finicky grape. Despite its small size, British Columbia boasts a range of dessert wines, too, with flavors of plum, blueberry, raspberry and others.

Ever iconoclastic, British Columbia counts among its exports a highly respected German-style icewine made from grapes picked and crushed while frozen. For 200 years a German specialty, in the last 30 years Canada has become one of the world’s largest producers of this unusual drink.

Whites range from the honeyed Riesling with a citrus aftertaste to the Gray Monk Pinot Gris, a recent favorite. The flagship early ripening Merlot with tones of plum and coffee aftertaste won’t disappoint the lover of red, nor will the later Cabernet Sauvignon from the Similkameen Valley.

Even tiny Vancouver Island, a relative newcomer, is getting into the act and experimenting with Ehrenfelser, Muscat, Siegerrebe and other exotic varieties. Most of these 135 acres are planted on hillside vineyards that serve 10 small wineries. But look for great things in the future.

Wine has long been paired with fruit, meat and other fine foods. But pairing with chocolate has a relatively recent, and controversial, history. There are those who insist that the twain should never meet. Nevertheless, there are wines and chocolates that make perfect partners.

Chocolates, except those used in cooking, are sweet. That can make the wine taste more like grape juice. There are two approaches that can enhance rather than undercut the wine.

Combining a sweet chocolate with a dry white is not for everyone. But for the experimental it is a delightful pairing. A dry white, such as a fine German Riesling, can offset any excessive sweetness from a rich, dark Belgian chocolate.

Others will want to take the opposite road. Combining a light, milk chocolate with a heavy claret or port may be overload for some. But for those who don’t want a chocolate’s sugar to overload the wine, you need a wine that will stand up to it with a boldness all its own.

A heavy Spanish Marsala may be just the thing to wash down the aftertaste of a mouth-enveloping chunk of chocolate. But for the more delicate milk chocolates from Switzerland, try a lighter Sherry. If Merlot is your preferred wine of the day, let its sweet, fruity nectar be offset by the tang of a bittersweet chocolate. Too much? Go with semi-sweet chocolate instead.

Pink Zinfandel has a sweeter, more fruity aftertaste. So, if that’s what you’re serving with your meal, when it comes time for dessert, pick a chocolate to match. Small squares of a dark Belgian with raisins can serve the purpose without overloading your guests.

You have a wide range of wines to choose from when serving truffles. Thanks to the mushroom base of truffles, and the delicate chocolate couverature sprinkled with cocoa powder, there are several reds that perfectly compliment this fine confection. You could go for a spicy Syrah or try something more subtle, like a fine Cabernet.

But as we already saw, red isn’t the only option. There are some whites that go well with chocolate. A white chocolate may be served best of all with a native wine such as Gewürztraminer. Because a white chocolate is especially rich and buttery, having no dark cocoa powder ingredients to offset it, take care to stay on the dry side with the wine.

There are those who prefer to stay with more traditional pairings. That’s fine. But where food and drink are concerned, there are no rules set in stone. A little experimentation may show that a truly fine chocolate makes for a great addition to the table at even the best soirées. Enjoy!